Fokionos Negri also keeps the area’s artsy past alive. Blank Wall Gallery focuses mostly on photography. At the Felios Collection traditional painting exhibitions and other art-related events are organised periodically. Contemporary art aficionados should visit the nearby artist-run spaces Bhive and Snehta, though both are open only by appointment and during exhibitions.
In the summer months, a typically Athenian way to spend your evening is catching a movie at the recently reopened open-air Stella Cinema, which is run by a Kypseli-based distribution company and screens mostly European and art-house films.
For coffee, sit down for a double cappuccino and some leisurely people-watching at Tsibi Tsibi or Phoibos. Meat lovers will appreciate the authentic Greek tastes at Rigani, where they serve quality gyro and all sorts of grilled meat, street-food style. If you like your fresh fish and seafood delicacies, then head to Vlasis, a traditional fishmonger’s and taverna under one roof.