Is it an oven mitt or a unicorn? When asked about their brand’s logo, step-siblings Pericles Stamboglis and Eleni Theodosopoulou simply reply that it’s both—and the unicorn is queer. Monokeros (that’s Greek for unicorn) opened its doors in early 2023, some narrow streets away from the B&E Goulandris Foundation in Pangrati. Though hard to track down, those who have sampled its goods know well to revisit. “Besides the obvious reason of trying to make a living, we both felt a deep need to dedicate our time to something meaningful,” they explain.
Pericles handles the bread part, cooking a great variety of familiar breads, as well as some quirky ones like the patsavouropsomo (loosely translates to raggedy bread), a 100% wholemeal sourdough loaf that is not moulded or shaped in any particular way with a sweet and sour taste, ideal for dipping in stews and sauces. A curry and black sesame bread is also on the catalogue, the kind that you can just eat on its own. Bread here is left to leaven and ripen slowly (between 24 to 48 hours) with the exception of baguettes—these may not be as nutritious as the rest of their products, but it’s the duo’s guilty pleasure.
Eleni, who is on the pastry and dessert side, follows the seasonality of raw materials for her creations. As she sees it, sweets are divided into two categories; those that we ideally have with our coffee (muffins, cookies, cakes of various flavours), and those we crave after a meal. For the latter, enter their lemon and lime tart with the perfect level of sourness. If you’re a fan of “sweetless desserts” you will love it here, as most of their sweets have no or very little sugar. Lastly, if you pop in on a Tuesday or Saturday you’ll get the chance to taste their special walnut and lemon zest bread. Eleni recommends it with butter and apricot jam, while Pericles with kefalograviera (hard table Greek gruyere) cheese. We’d say, go for both.