The Athenian intelligentsia have long settled in this central neighbourhood of leafy squares and lively cafes. Now the hipsters are moving in too.

The Urbanised and the Urbane

Pangrati is the quintessential middle-class neighbourhood with a definite artsy aura. The home address of musicians, writers, directors, academics, and journalists, past residents include composer Manos Hatzidakis and poet George Seferis. This makes for a lively café culture radiating from two hubs, Platia Proskopon and Platia Varnava. Shops, restaurants, small bars, and green spaces—plus a couple of galleries, an art house cinema, and a theatre—reflect the locals’ cosmopolitan outlook. When it opens in October 2019, the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art will boost the area’s profile among visitors, already drawn by the Kallimarmaro stadium and Athens First Cemetery. The unique vibe undulates between edginess and convention. This is one of the city’s most desirable neighbourhoods, and finding an apartment in the Pangrati or Mets areas has always been hard, as people move in but rarely move out. Though technically right in the city centre, the mood here is decidedly detached from it: Pangrati isn’t where change is sparked, but where it settles in.

These stadium views never get old.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

Panathenaic Stadium

Platia Proskopon

You could spend all day eating and sipping your way around this square.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

A quiet day in Platia Varnava.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

Platia Varnava

Postal Philatelic Museum

Learn a little about Greek history through stamps.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

A beautiful day in the First Cemetery.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

Athens First Cemetery