Rouan Thai, in the backstreets of Piraeus, looks pretty basic but it serves the best Thai food in Athens. It’s run by a retired Greek seaman, who met his wife on a trip to Siam. She and their daughter—a graduate of the Royal Thai School of Culinary Arts—work their magic in the kitchen. Go for their famous Pad Thai and Tom Yum, a sour and spicy shrimp soup.
In Piraeus, you can also try superb Indian food at Maharaja Kitchen, tucked away on the first floor of an apartment building. My favourite dishes are the naan with minced meat, the minty kebab, and murgh korma (chicken with cashews and walnuts in a spicy yogurt sauce).