Tucked between glitzy Glyfada and the upscale enclave of Vouliagmeni, sleepy little Voula used to be like the overlooked middle sibling. How times change. This unassuming seaside suburb now ranks among the most cosmopolitan postcodes in the capital. When it comes to going out, many southsiders are now choosing Voula over Glyfada because of its chic but cosy vibe.
Voula Platia is the social headquarters of Voula.
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
Twelve years ago, when we moved to Athens, leafy Voula was a pleasant residential community, perfectly placed for the best beaches and drawcards of the Athens Riviera, while still only 16km from the city-centre. We lived just across the road from Voula Platia, or main square—a handy but parochial hive of butcher’s shops, bakeries, hardware and carpet stores. Voula Square, with its slightly rundown air and matronly boutiques, was the place you went to run errands, meet friends for a hurried weekday coffee, or relax over a mellow Sunday lunch at one of the old school tavernas, while the kids belted about on their scooters.
The spirit of old Voula can still be found at stalwarts like Fontanina brasserie, Dio Mio café and Andonis’ taverna. But in Voula reloaded, you’ll now also find “meat boutiques” (complete with DJ decks and €300 imported cuts), sophisticated wine and sushi bars, concept stores, posh delis and classy dining options covering all creeds of cuisine from Russian and Vietnamese, to Italian and contemporary Greek. There’s even an oyster bar where you can tuck into French oysters or grilled scallops.
I’ve loved witnessing Voula’s luxe transformation. But what I relish even more is that my suburb has retained its neighbourhood spirit. There are still plenty of spots dishing up quality, atmosphere and great value for money.
Head to Family for heavenly desserts.
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
Life's a beach in Voula.
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
Voula's Greatest Hits
Faidon’s Athens
This hugely popular wine bar perfectly captures the new “village vibe” of Voula. A big part of its charm is its bijou size and great location, just beyond the main square, across from pretty Agios Ioannis church. Faidon inhabits its own chilled bubble, especially when you factor in owner Christos Tsiknakos’ penchant for gypsy jazz. On any given weeknight, you’ll encounter a mix of mellow locals and urban sophisticates, perched on the pavement around re-purposed wine-barrels. Stools are in scant supply and on weekends it’s usually standing room only, so book ahead if you wish to sit. Choose your preferred grape from Faidon’s well-curated stock of mid-range and special edition Greek and foreign wines (you’ll pay just a few euros on top of cava price for corkage), and watch the sun dip behind Agios Ioannis over a bowl of organic olives or a charcuterie platter sourced from their delicatessen. Faidon recently expanded to include a coffee, nuts and chocolate bar, making it an all-day proposition.
"Stools are in scant supply and on weekends it’s usually standing room only."
Some of the tastiest burgers in town are served at Oppen.
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
Oppen
You’ve got to hand it to those Swedes; they really know how to create contemporary urban spaces. Gourmet burger bar Oppen—with its inviting courtyard and slick fit-out—is no exception. Oppen is our family’s favourite eatery (especially when we want to show off to visitors how cool Voula has become!). No style over substance here, though. Oppen consistently serves some of the tastiest burgers in town, along with terrific cocktails and shakes. There are interesting burger deviations, with ingredients like quinoa, truffle oil, goat’s cheese and mushrooms. But the uncontested hero is the Stay Classic burger (toasted brioche buns and high-grade meat are the key). Sometimes you do have quite a long wait for your burger, but once you wrap your hands around it, you won’t care.
Amarone
Amarone (formerly Ballaro) is another prime example of the new Voula’s knack for delivering elegant pavement dining at surprisingly wallet-friendly prices. Annexed off a sunken courtyard on trendy Posidonos Street, Amarone’s culinary muse is the rustic cuisine of a Palermo street market. The menu is pasta-centric (don’t go if you’re craving pizza) and focuses on well-executed Sicilian dishes—such as vitello tonnato (veal with tuna and caper sauce), porcini risotto, and an excellent white truffle pasta. Most of the pasta dishes come in under €10, including their best-seller, a standout tortellini al ragu loaded with tender shredded beef. Friendly staff and a well-priced selection of Italian wines (you can’t go wrong with the Valpolicella Classico), make this the perfect spot for a cosy date night or a stylish Sunday lunch.
Stylish pavement dining at Amarone.
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
The Rolls-Royce of steakhouses.
Courtesy: Courtesy of Drakoulis Meat Open Project
Drakoulis Meat Open Project
Is it a nightclub? Or a mecca for elite meat? Actually, this hip and happening Voula butcher is both—depending on when you visit. And there’s more: the cellar is a high-end restaurant called Dry & Raw, with a decadent, underground vibe where you can pick out your favourite imported cuts of Wagyu, Kobe or striploin beef and have them cooked your way. Otherwise select from pricey statement dishes, such as poached lobster with pak choi miso sauce and the curiously named “Bullshit”- short ribs slow-cooked for 48 hours. Don’t have the readies? Shop Drakoulis’ pre-packaged meat, including delicious bifteki (burger) patties and marinated chicken skewers that won’t break the bank.
The Essential Voula Address Book
Classic cocktails: Dentro All Day Bar
Insider Tip: Sip on a moscow mule or whiskey sour. They’re as good as any you’ll get downtown.
Classic Greek Food: To Gnision
Insider Tip: The baked kebabs with yoghurt and tomato salsa always hit the spot.
Superb Seafood: Akrovoli Restaurant & Oyster Bar
Insider Tip: Call ahead for oysters—sometimes they run out.
Afternoon Tea: Family
Insider Tip: The banoffee pie. You’re welcome.
Courtesy: Akrovoli Restaurant & Oyster Bar
Courtesy: Rey Pablo
Greek Designer Fashion: WHERE?
Insider Tip: Pricey but highly-wearable fashion from hot, Athens-based designers.
Coastal Chic: 10Ten
Insider Tip: One-off pareos, beach totes and jewellery make great gifts. Pitch-perfect Riviera attire.
Gourmet Groceries: Peri Gis Grocery Bar
Insider Tip: Creative smoothies and juices are their forte; the tortillas are delicious (and cheap!), too.
20-Somethings: Rey Pablo
Insider tip: A cool all-day haunt, but brunch rules the roost (especially the pancakes with granola).