We walk back down the hill and to Anapafseos Street. The first two blocks off the cemetery are home to marble workshops, mostly for gravestones, busts and statues, some incredibly ornate, others lifelike. Tall trees lean over the street, as if to shelter it from the heat and nearby bustle.
“There aren’t many bars and restaurants in the area,” he tells me, “but my go-to place for food is Olympion. It’s been nurturing Mets for years. People must try the makaronia me kima (spaghetti bolognese), the beef sofrito, the lahanodolmades (cabbage leaves stuffed with rice and minced meat), the lasagne, the gemista (stuffed vegetables), or anything from the grill. I could go on…”
Next to Olympion is Colibri, one of the first spots to serve pizza and burgers in the neighbourhood. And a little further La Nonna, a laid-back pizzeria that attracts customers from all over the city.