Kypseli’s heart beats around Fokionos Negri, a pedestrianised boulevard that was built over a stream: The oldest of Kypseliots still have childhood memories of feeding the ducks in that stream back in the 1930s. The street is lined with many cafés, bars and restaurants, where locals of all ages gather to chat and socialise under the trees. The open spaces and lawns along the 600-metre promenade are also popular with dog owners (fun fact: spot the dog statue from the 1940s). In its heyday, Fokionos Negri was one of the fanciest streets, and to this day remains lined with auspicious apartment buildings that were erected for the rich and famous of the time.
As you make your way up Fokionos Negri, you’ll pass on your right the Kypseli Municipal Market (temporarily closed for renovation), one of the neighbourhood’s oldest historical landmarks. It was built as a food market in 1935 following the principles of modernism, although neoclassical elements were later added to it. It operated continuously until 2003, when it had to be closed down. The City of Athens renovated the listed building in 2012 and since 2016 it has been a lively hub for social enterprises, start-ups, and events. In the summer months, a typically Athenian way to spend your evening would be to catch a movie at an open-air cinema, such as Stella (right across the Municipal Market on the first parallel to the left), also owned by the City of Athens and run by a Kypseli-based distribution company. There you can watch European and art-house films under the stars, surrounded by the iconic urban nightscape of Kypseli.
At the very end of Fokionos Negri you’ll come upon Kypseli Square, the district’s epicentre, where you can find a post office, bakeries, some street food restaurants, and banks. From here you can also catch trolleys and buses back to Victoria Station and Syntagma.