These backstreet basement tavernas serve traditional food and drink with a side of Athenian history. Here’s how to find them.

By Stavros Dioskouridis

Head underground—literally—to check out another side of Greek dining.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

The entrance to Diporto isn't always easy to find, but follow the music.

Photo: Thomas Gravanis

Lovely lahmacun at Inomagirio Alexandras.

Photo: Eleni Veziri

This white building houses one of our favorite koutouki in the city.

Photo: Eleni Veziri