The square is bustling with people. Men in suits tap their earpieces as they zoom through the crowds at the street lights, elderly ladies in pearls and gems navigate the busy sidewalks, people chat, laugh and stir their iced coffees at the outdoor cafés, surrounded by shopping bags that scream upmarket brand names.
Welcome to Kolonaki. Literally meaning "little column", this upmarket neighbourhood on the slopes of Lycabettus Hill is home to designer boutiques, countless cafés, chic restaurants and beautiful townhouses handed down from one generation of true "Kolonakiotes" to the next. To Athenians, the elderly residents of Kolonaki are seen as a modern version of borderline royalty.
Daphne Zoumboulakis is the woman behind Zoumboulakis Galleries, one of the oldest art galleries in Athens. The first Zoumboulakis Gallery was founded in 1966 on Kriezotou Street, followed by a second in nearby Kolonaki Square in 1973. Both were opened by Daphne's parents, who essentially brought contemporary art into the living rooms of Athenians. Today Daphne runs the show(s). At the gallery, she sits at her desk, surrounded by thick art books, small sculptures and two sketches by the Greek artist Takis framed on the wall behind her, one dedicated to her, one to her mother. Even the red chair I settle into is probably another work of art.
The first Zoumboulakis Gallery was founded in 1966.
Photo: Georgios Makkas
Kolonaki in a photo.
Photo: Georgios Makkas
"The area is such a mess at the moment. It used to be cute. I hope its character is preserved somehow," she says, shortly after we start talking about the Kolonaki of today. She is referring to the colossal excavation at the area's main square for the future metro station at Kolonaki Square, part of the new metro line (line 4).
"That’s why I think that the best parts of Kolonaki right now are the upper streets, towards Lycabettus Hill. I like Skoufa Street. I love to sit at Filion café, one of the area’s oldest coffee shops. I feel that the waiters who work there have been there forever," she mentions in jest. Filion is a legendary hotspot with an old Athenian feel and a loyal following of regulars who sit on the wicker chairs under the green awning, taking a coffee break, sealing the next deal or just watching the world go by. It also works the other way around; people walk by to see who's sitting there.
To the right of Filion is a set of stairs leading to Lycabettus Hill. "If you go up the stairs and turn right into Anagnostopoulou Street, you'll come to a peaceful green area where there's a large stone that looks like it's been cut in half. It's called Skisti Petra ("torn stone") and I used to go up there every day during the lockdowns. There's a wonderful view of the city from there,” she says.
Where there's coffee (and there certainly is a lot of coffee in Kolonaki), there's dessert. For those with a sweet tooth, Daphne recommends Désiré, an old-fashioned pastry shop with all sorts of delicious treats, from syrupy chestnuts to millefeuille. Meeting for coffee in an old style pastry shop may sound like something from a past era, but it is still very much a thing for the genteel elderly of Kolonaki. Besides, the GenZers of Athens are also taking up the tradition.
Désiré going strong since 1962.
Photo: Georgios Makkas
Philos means "friend" in Greek.
Photo: Georgios Makkas
Philos is Daphne’s go-to place for brunch or lunch, located in a beautiful neoclassical building on Solonos Street. Drawing the sophisticated and discerning crowd, it serves Mediterranean cuisine and also hosts art exhibitions. For dinner, Daphne recommends a visit to Codice Blu, a quaint Italian restaurant on quiet Loukianou Street with indoor and outdoor seating.
"And the best bar to drink in is Radka," says Daphne. And leaves it at that, as if everyone should know why that is. Radka (est. 1975), named after its larger-than-life original owner, Radka Lalovska, is one of the oldest bars in Athens, along with Galaxy Bar on Stadiou Street and Au Revoir on Patission Avenue, and has remained stubbornly unrenovated for the past three decades, carrying within its walls the aspirations and swagger of past generations. At night, Kolonaki is as busy as it is during the day, as many Athenians still consider it the best area in downtown Athens for a night out, although nowadays it bears little resemblance to the crowds and nightclubs of the 1990s.
"The area has always had its ups and downs, like all neighbourhoods," she says. "Let's hope this will all be over soon," she adds, referring to the metro construction work.
If you've managed to track down all the Greek hot designer brands that call Kolonaki home, the neighbourhood is also a prime location for jewellery shopping in Athens. If you're looking for fine gems, Daphne recommends a visit to Lito. For more affordable bling, head to Marianna Petridi (check out her "blots" rings).
"Here, let me show you my home," she says, pulling out her phone. "This is my veranda, it's full of green, it's like an oasis. A little Costa Rica in the middle of the city. You know, Yiannis Moralis lived there before me," she says modestly, naming one of Greece's greatest visual artists. "I grew up with him."
Outside the gallery, Kolonaki is still bustling with people, as it has been all day. Visitors head to museums and shops, locals leave work and grab seats for happy hour, and as the sun begins to set, the dinner crowds appear. A lottery salesman walks around the square, tickets pinned to a wooden stick, his voice as loud as the construction on the square, like the old tuning into the new.
Fine lines and precious stones at Marianna Petridi.
Photo: Georgios Makkas