Before Google maps, most of Plaka’s magic lay in getting lost as you wandered its winding pedestrian streets, marvelled at the white and fuchsia bougainvillea that spills from balconies, and stumbled upon unexpected ancient ruins. Today, your phone guides the way. And tells you where to eat and drink. But if you want to explore the prettiest neighbourhood in Athens the old-fashioned way (or not), these local favourites are worth seeking out. From traditional Greek food to old-school cafés, here’s where to eat and drink in Plaka.
Greek liquor bottles set the scene at Brettos.
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
Brettos €€
Even if you haven’t been here yet, you’ve definitely seen a photograph of this bar. Stacked to the rafters with colourful, backlit liquor bottles, it’s a Plaka landmark. Something between a dive bar, distillery and wine bar, Brettos has been around since 1909. Grab a seat at one of the wooden barrels and leaf through the encyclopedic menu. Choose from the brandies, 50 flavours of liqueur (ranging peppermint to watermelon), ouzos, rakomelo (hot raki with honey and cinnamon). Of course, you could just go for a glass of Greek wine. But if you’re up for something more complicated, tell the bartenders if you’re a sweet or sour person, what spirits you prefer, and they’ll shake you up a delicious cocktail.
Yiasemi €
Homemade tarts and pies are this café-bistro’s claim to fame. Packed day and night, the setting is so quaint and Plaka-esque, you could sit there for hours just taking it all in. The interior feels village-like, adorned with wood, plants, a mish-mash of vintage furniture, and a country-style kitchen. The tightly packed outside seating spills onto the stone steps of Mnisikleous Street, that seem to be running straight up to the Parthenon. There’s more seating up on the tumbledown roof garden. If you’re craving something sweet, go for the traditional baklava with olive oil and honey or the chocolate and biscuit mosaic cake. If you’re in the market for breakfast or brunch, there’s a full vegetarian buffet. For a light lunch or dinner, there’s an array of traditional Greek dishes, from beetroot salad with yoghurt, green apple and walnuts to roast pork with plums.
Spill onto the stairs, it's the best spot.
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
Welcome to Glykis. Come on in.
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
Glykis Kafenio €
Tradition is everything here. From the woven chairs to the round blue metal tables to the tree-lined marble terrace, Glykis is everything you would expect from a typical, old-fashioned kafenion. The whole place looks like it’s been set up to shoot a period movie. If you’ve never tried a Greek coffee, this is where you should order one. It’s also where Greek staple spirits like ouzo and raki should be sampled, preferably with a few simple mezedes (appetizers to share) like marinated anchovies, grilled sausages, or grilled peppers stuffed with cheese. Eat slowly, sip even slower, take in the vibe and make you may just end up with your own vintage Greek movie of memories.
Question: How many scoops can you fit into a cone?
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
Da Vinci Gelato €
Anyone up for a gelato next to the Lysicrates monument? At Da Vinci, the ice cream is freshly made on a daily basis, preservative-free and the line up of flavours is impressive, not to mention delicious. Our favourites are the forest fruits, lime and pineapple-melon combo. If you want to go Greek, try the yoghurt with honey and nuts or the traditional local spin on vanilla, kaimaki flavour. Kids will love the choice of cones, dipped in colourful sprinkles. They’ll probably opt for the more recognisable scoops like cookies and cream, vanilla from Madagascar, or banana toffee. There’s no place to sit at this Da Vinci location, but take your ice cream and hang around the Lysicrates monument. It’s easy to imagine a time when this area was dotted with similar statues, erected by art patrons as a symbol of their support for ancient Greek drama, staged at the nearby theatre of Dionysus. Literary aficionados will love the fact that Lord Byron used to hang out in this shady square, before it was covered with cafés, penning his poetry.
Platanos Taverna €€
In Greek, platanos is a plane or sycamore tree and you guessed it, this taverna is named after the trees that stretch their leafy branches over the tables on a peaceful square. This place is as old Plaka as it gets, with classic dishes and a lot of history; it’s been around since 1932 and the likes of Henry Miller and Patrick Leigh Fermor have enjoyed a meal or two here. Inside, karagiozi (shadow puppet) figures and old photographs line the walls, chequered tablecloths cover the tables and delicious aromas swirl through the air. Go traditional, even cliché here. Dip your bread into tzatziki, drown your Greek salad in olive oil and crush in the feta, and choose from the roll call of combinations that come with beef or lamb. For the non-meat eaters, there’s plenty to devour, from gigantes (giant beans cooked in tomato sauce) to gemista (tomatoes and peppers stuffed with rice and herbs). And since you’re going all-out cliché, order the house retsina. This Greek wine is making an international comeback; at Platanos, it’s as authentic as can be.
It's not meat, it's lamb!
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
One of the finest coffee spots in town.
Photo: Manos Chatzikonstantis
Café Melina €
Step inside and you’ll instantly realise why this café-bistro is named Melina. It’s dedicated to the life of Melina Mercouri, the legendary Greek minister of culture and actress best known for “Never on Sunday.” The owner, Andreas Martzaklis was originally a waiter at the café inside the Greek Parliament and maître d’ at the Prime Minister’s office. Having met Mercouri and got to know her well, Martzaklis felt the need to create a tribute to her accomplishments. Photographs of Melina and her friends hang on the walls and you can leaf through books about her life.
Café Melina is open all day. The outdoor tables are set under one of the most photographed bougainvilleas in the city. By day, it’s always abuzz with people sipping coffee, devouring chocolate cake or a bowl of fresh fruit with yoghurt. In the evening, head indoors as the sweet sounds of jazz take over the softly lit bistro.
Dioskouri €
The magic of this place is its location. The little tables are separated from the Ancient Agora by a thin green fence. During the day, you can sightsee right from your seat, with an iced coffee and a slice of freshly baked pie. At night, you can gaze at the lit-up temple of Hephaestus over an ouzo and meze. The lunch and dinner menus are pretty basic, from a souvlaki platter to makaronia me kima (the Greek version of spaghetti Bolognese). It’s all about the laid-back atmosphere and incredible setting, rather than the food. Sit back and people watch, or join the locals in animated conversation. The Agora is, after all, where it all used to happen back in the days of the ancient Greeks.
Ancient Agora calling.
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
The stairway to Greek food heaven.
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
Saita €€
Traditional tavernas in Plaka are a dime a dozen, but truth be told, not many of them are as authentic as they claim to be. Saita is a rare exception. This effortlessly quaint taverna sits on the quieter end of souvenir-lined Kydathineon Street. There are a handful of shaded tables on the pavement, overlooking the courtyard of the Byzantine Metamorphosis church. In the winter, the action moves down to the cosy basement, where Greek comfort food is turned out from the tiny kitchen. Their most famous speciality is bakaliaros skordalia (battered salt cod served with a fierce garlic dip), but everything is delicious. The grilled lamb chops, baked aubergine with feta, and crisp little meatballs are all highly recommended.
Barbounaki €€
Not everything in Plaka has to be about tzatziki and moussaka. Seafood is a staple of the city and this restaurant is right outside the Metropolitan Cathedral, with tables spilling out into the scenic square. Barbounaki (Greek for red mullet) is the fifth taverna in the city that chef George Papaionnou has opened. His upscale claim-to-fame is Papaioannou restaurant in Piraeus. At Barbounaki, he makes his culinary art accessible to all. Focussing on seafood mezedes (plates to share) rather than large fish on the grill or more complicated dishes, this place gives you the opportunity to try everything. What’s a must here is, of course, is the fried red mullet. The steamed mussels, grilled octopus, calamari, and haloumi cheese are all delicious. The sea bass carpaccio is fabulous and if you’re lucky and crayfish are in season, ask them to throw a few on the grill.