Photo: Thomas Gravanis
Walking up an Appetite
“Do you feel shivers in your soul?” George asks us dramatically.
It’s early evening and our guide has suddenly pulled us over to the side of a narrow road, in the heart of Plaka, the enchanting old town of Athens. This is Athens photographer Thomas and I are on a one-hour history walk, taking in some heritage sites of downtown Athens, as an appetiser to tonight’s main course: an exclusive dinner at a private residence in Plaka.
“We’re walking down what is believed to be the oldest living street in Greece,” George reveals. “If not the universe.”
The street we’re standing in has been continuously inhabited for about 2,600 years. In ancient times, it was home to many illustrious Athenians, among them wealthy sponsors of the first theatrical tragedies who erected grand monuments to their artistic triumphs. The annual procession of Dionysus, patron god of the arts, passed through this street on its way to the theatre of Dionysus, on the nearby Acropolis hill.
“It’s also where that great philhellene and wine lover, Lord Byron, came to stay, millennia later, at a Capuchin monastery built in the 17th century,” George tells us. While in residence, Byron wrote poems, studied modern Greek and immersed himself in Athens’ cosmopolitan society. All around us, people are unwinding in wine bars, dining in cosy tavernas. Our thoughts turn to food, too.
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
A Private Dinner in a Historic Home
Haven’t we all peeked into the window of a gorgeous home in another city and wondered about the charmed lives within? Wished we could have a good poke around inside? That’s the thrill of this tour. One moment we’re standing outside a neoclassical townhouse on Athens’ oldest street; the next, we’re being welcomed over the marble threshold by the owner, an Athenian museum director.
We’re led up an original Ottoman staircase into an all-white sitting room, lit with candles and scattered with contemporary and vintage objets d’art. Jazz pianist Bill Evans spins on an old record player and we’re handed a glass of wine. The room is compact, in the typical 19th century style, but with wonderfully high ceilings.
“Back then, wealth was about how much space you had above you, not around you,” laughs our host.
Before dinner, we get the full house tour. I’m besotted with the medley of black and white photos of Greece in the 1950s and 60s, by the likes of Robert McCabe and Dimitris Harisiades. There’s also an amazing blow-up of our host, aged two, riding a camel in the port of Piraeus.
The knock-out roof-terrace is another high point. Literally. It’s a rare oasis with palm and olive trees, stone mosaics and coloured lights. Oh, and the Parthenon. All lit up under a full moon like it’s dressed for dinner, and so close it appears intent on joining us too.
“Every morning, rain, hail or shine, this is where I have my coffee,” says our host. “I love having a secret garden in the middle of the city.”
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
Dining on History
A month earlier and we would be dining up here, but there’s a cool November wind upon us. Our consolation prize? We eat downstairs in an elegant dining room with millennia-old relics beneath an illuminated glass floor.
Over three delicious courses (each Heritage Dinner is tailored to your tastes, with a focus on modern Greek cuisine), we learn more fun facts about the house. The earliest deeds, in Ottoman script, date back to 1802. The previous resident was a Greek screen legend. And there are several different layers of Athenian history underneath our stylish chairs, including a goldsmith’s furnace from 1200 BC.
Conversation flows easily. On every wall or shelf, there’s something fascinating to talk about — whether it’s the ceremonial knitting needles from Asia Minor or the twin fez hats hanging near them. Helping myself to another of the miniature chocolate puddings during the dessert course, I notice what appears to be a cannonball embedded in the stone wall opposite.
“Is that a real cannonball?” I ask.
George’s eyes light up. “Oh yes, well spotted,” he says. “That’s most likely from when the Venetians bombarded the Acropolis. Back in 1687.”
Yep. Just your regular Thursday night around the dinner table in downtown Athens.
Photo: Thomas Gravanis
What’s the verdict?
Sitting down to a great meal in a remarkable setting, enjoying cultured conversation with hospitable locals, is a fantastic way of exploring Athens as a true insider. Even most Athenians would never experience their city the way we did.
- Duration: 3.45 hours
- Cost: €350-550 per person (depending on group size). Suitable for between 2- 6 people.
- Time: 6pm or 7pm (depending on season).