In the web of newly pedestrianised alleys above Athinas Street, hip bars and boutiques are peppered among the traditional textile, hardware and haberdashery shops. But Gerani is still distinctly ungentrified. “It’s like a forgotten area of the city. It’s very vibrant, a little decadent, with a mix of old-school shops and cheap Chinese knock-offs that give the area a unique vibe,” says Haralambidis. “There’s a big Pakistani population here. I like to eat at places that I call ‘Athens exotica’—ethnic food joints where few tourists or even Greeks venture.” These are Haralambidis’ other favourite hangouts.